Types of eyebrow design for your face shape

Why eyebrow design changes the face so much

Eyebrows are the natural frame of the eye and one of the elements that most influences facial expression. A well-executed design can visually lengthen the face, lift the gaze or soften angular features. That's why the first step in any eyebrow treatment is to analyse the shape of the face.

Oval face

This is the most versatile face shape. Almost any eyebrow design looks good, although a soft, slightly lifted arch harmonises best with its natural proportions. Avoid overly straight brows, which can visually shorten the face.

Round face

The goal is to add verticality. A high-arched brow with a more angled line lengthens the face and refines the features. Avoid low, horizontal brows, which accentuate roundness.

Square face

To soften a strong jaw the ideal is a pronounced but rounded arch on the outer part. Straight brows or ones with very sharp angles reinforce angularity and don't usually flatter.

Heart-shaped face (wide forehead, narrow chin)

A low brow with a soft arch balances the extra forehead. Long tails help visually lengthen the lower part of the face.

Long face

A straight, horizontal brow helps visually "shorten" the face by adding width. A very pronounced arch doesn't flatter in this case because it lengthens even more.

Which techniques do we use at Prettify?

At our salons we combine threading, wax and tweezers to define the exact shape that best suits each client. To colour or fill in, we use eyebrow henna (natural result lasting 2 to 4 weeks) or professional tint (more intensity, ideal for very light brows).

If you want longer-lasting results, brow lamination sets the hairs in the desired direction for 6 to 8 weeks, achieving the "soap brows" effect without make-up. And to add colour and a sense of density, henna also stains the skin, which disguises gaps far better than a conventional tint.

How to identify your face shape at home

Before deciding on a design it helps to know where you're starting from. It's easier than it sounds:

1. Tie your hair back and stand in front of a mirror with light coming from the front.
2. With an eyeliner pencil or a whiteboard marker, trace the outline of your face on the mirror.
3. Step back and look at the silhouette you've drawn.

If the width of the forehead, cheekbones and jaw are similar and the face is longer than it is wide, it's oval. If all three widths are similar but the face is almost as long as it is wide, it's round. If the jaw is as wide as the forehead with defined angles, it's square. If the forehead is clearly wider than the chin, it's heart-shaped. And if the face is considerably longer than it is wide, it's long.

The three measurements a professional uses

In the cabin the design isn't improvised: three points are marked with a pencil and a ruler or thread.

• Start: a vertical line from the side of the nostril to the inner corner of the eye. That's where the brow begins.
• Highest point of the arch: a line from the side of the nostril passing through the outer edge of the iris. It usually falls between two-thirds and three-quarters of the way along the brow, never in the centre.
• End: a line from the side of the nostril to the outer corner of the eye. If the tail ends sooner, the gaze droops.

These three points are then adjusted according to face shape, but they are the skeleton of any balanced design.

The mistakes we see most at the salon

• Plucking above the brow: that's where the natural shape is. Almost all the work should be done below.
• Putting the arch in the centre: it gives a permanently surprised expression. The high point goes further out.
• Brows that are too thin: brow hair stops growing if over-plucked for years, and recovering it takes months.
• Chasing perfect symmetry: eyebrows are sisters, not twins. Forcing them to be identical usually ends up removing too much hair.
• Copying a brow from a photo: what flatters a round face doesn't work on a long one.

How often to touch up the design

The growth cycle of eyebrow hair is about 3 to 4 weeks, so that is the usual maintenance rhythm. If you're growing back heavily plucked brows, space appointments out to 6 weeks and let the professional decide what to remove: at that stage the aim is to add hair, not subtract.

Henna colour lasts 2 to 4 weeks on the hair and a little less on the skin. Professional tint gives more intensity and lasts between 3 and 5 weeks.

Frequently asked questions

Does threading hurt? It's a quick tugging sensation, more bearable than wax for most people and with no risk of burns. It also pulls the eyelid skin less.

Can I get my brows done if I use retinol or acids? It's best to stop them 5 to 7 days beforehand: the skin is thinner and wax can lift it.

What if I have little hair in the tail? There the design can only go so far. Henna disguises quite a lot because it also stains the skin, and lamination helps redistribute the hair you do have to cover the gap. If the area is completely bare, the honest answer is that Brow Bar techniques can't fill it in: that requires micropigmentation, which we don't offer.

Eyebrow design at Prettify

You can see all treatments and prices on our eyebrow design page, and book at the salon that suits you best: we have centres in Barcelona, Madrid, Lleida and Mataró, among others.